Expedition North Downs Way - 'Men For All Seasons' - Final Leg

Friday 28 - Sunday 30 September 2012

Lenham to Dover

About a year after the idea to walk the North Downs Way was created, our first expedition was completed. It took three, one-and-a-half day journeys and a final three day leg to complete our journey across Surrey and Kent.
     
Summary:
       This Final Leg of our expedition led us along the famous chalk ridge of Kent, the way to the finish line at Dover. Day One saw us journey 15 miles from our start point at Lenham, to our first farm near Hastingleigh. We then journeyed on for the next farm which was the shorter distance of only 11 miles so that we could arrive early the following morning at Dover, after having a swim in the Channel and watching the sun rise.


 Day 1:

After setting off at 1100hrs we found ourselves walking along fairly flat fields and under the Lenham Downs.  We soon came across the Lenham Memorial – a 61m tall chalk cross cut into the ridge - which commemorates the war dead of the two World Wars. We set ourselves a time limit to reach Charing - within the first hour, so that we kept in good time.  After passing above the village, where Venture & Invicta Motorcycles were built in the early 1900s, we found ourselves on a track which passed over the top of the ruins of the Archbishop’s Palace, a place where Henry VIII stayed on his journey to 'the field of the cloth of gold’ in France



A short way along the track we stopped and ate our breakfast and lunch, looking through a gap in the trees over the Weald of Kent.  We passed through Eastwell Park, where during the Second World War tank manoeuvres took place. It is rumoured that their activities led the roof of St. Mary’s Church to fall in and thus the church ran to ruin.  The last of the Plantagenants, Richard IV, is said to have been buried in the churchyard.



The Wye Crown visible a few miles away

English on the Wye crown

As we walked we passed the point at which
you can choose to go to dover via
Caterbury still along the north downs way

We soon came to the village of Boughton Lees and over a number of fields to the larger village of Wye, where the  famous Wye Crown is cut into the Downs above the village.  In 1902 the Crown was made by students of Wye Agriculture College, to celebrate the coronation of King Edward VII.  In the year 2000 the College was merged with Imperial College, London and became Imperial College, Wye.  This ended the College’s 653 year history.  Whilst standing on the bridge leading into Wye, we were reminded of the village of Yalding where we passed through on our second trial walk.  We passed over the top of Wye Crown and along the top of the  Downs over brilliant views of the south of England and the approaching rain.  We then came to the Wye Nature Reserve and after a small section of woodland we were chased by the carpet of wind and rain, brought from the South, as we approached the farm where we were to set up camp.  We rushed to put on our waterproofs but unfortunately not quickly enough, and so had to continue with wet trousers under our waterproof clothing.  Undeterred, we continued to the farm with rain following all the way.

We set up camp and decided to eat our rations cold, to allow us an earlier night and less washing up!

 Day 2:

                                         

Rising at 0600hrs we packed up and were on our way by 0700hrs.  In  good weather  we headed to reach our next farm, only 11 miles away, North of Folkestone.  We knew this would be a less challenging day as the distance was shorter than Day One and we had more time.

Our first, comfirmed, sighting of the
sea was on this hill in the morning

This day was very easy.  We had improved in fitness and we were able to stop a mile away from the farm sitting on the highest point that the eye could see, with views of  Folkestone, Dungeness Power Station and on the horizon, France.


During our travels on Day 2 we passed numerous interesting views including the view at Hempton Farm, and the village of Postling.



We encountered many steep hills in the
morning

Walking in the morning was not too challenging.  Starting on top of the ridge meant that we could see the sea for the first time, a very welcome sight. However, having started off the day with no water we were forced to call at a pub to ask for refills of our hydration packs, a gift which was much appreciated.   We continued on for a few miles before stopping at a pre-planned viewpoint for our breakfast.

For a few hours we continued on along the ridge until we stopped for a snack and came within eye level of a light aircraft, as it was flying over the ridge. The pilot waved as he came very close to us

After our encounter with the aeroplane and a short snack stop, we headed off. Still on track, we walked through a few fields that were used for training soldiers  - there was no sign of military activity but we did watch some men ferreting, whilst we ate our lunch.

The dipping and swerving footpaths

In the afternoon we walked South of Etchinghill and through a path rising and swathing through the hills of the North Downs,  stopping at numerous photo opportunities.  The scenery on this day was the best of the whole expedition.  Weather was very good too -  not too warm with clear skies and very good visibility - we could see France by this point



The view of Folkestone from where we
sat

We walked on, dipping and diving along the footpath until we came to a disused quarry, about a mile away from the farm. At  1515hrs we were too early and so climbed to the top of the pit and sat there, overlooking Folkestone, until the time was right to leave. We were at the highest point that we could see, with brilliant views of France and sitting directly above the Channel Train Terminal – a mass network of tracks, overhead cables, with trains carrying freight lorries and coaches.

When time was appropriate, ie 1645hrs we set off to make the final mile to our final farm in our final leg of our first expedition.  A couple of celebratory pot noodles, which Mumford had carried with him, was greatly enjoyed that evening as we sat looking at the lit up coastline of France.                                                                                                                                                                                                           Day 3:

On the final day we rose at 0400hrs and packed  up and left a 0500hrs on the dot; our objectives for today were few but hugely important and challenging. We were to swim in the Channel and make it to Dover by 1000hrs.

    We set off in near complete darkness, with only the light of the full moon to guide us. Folkestone was lit up as we walked North of it on the ridge.

         A few miles on we came to a hill called Caesar's Camp. A site which was once excavated and, despite the name, it was found to be a Norman earth and timber fort. On this hill we came across a herd of cattle in the darkness. Scared by our big kit bags they ran off.  Mumford joked, “they’re mustering around the corner for a charge at us.” Then to our horror they came back over the hill, charging towards us! We ran around a corner, out of their sight and took cover amongst some trees half way down a very steep hill, until we knew where to escape to.   

In the darkness on the hill is where the
cows chased us. folkestone is lit up

In order to go for a swim we had to take a vey big diversion which was very costly to our time, so we ran a lot of the way. We had to walk a long way off the track and then parallel to it as the path was on top of the cliff - but at the bottom of the cliffs was where we were walking to find a spot to swim. We were very lucky; before we started swimming we saw the sun begin to rise, in the clear day, over the Channel. A surprise sight for both of us. We had a quick dunking/swim in the surpisingly warm water and back-tracked on ourselves to get back onto the cliffs

Battle of Britain Memorial

Early radar

Once we were on the path again we soon came to the Battle of Britain War Memorial dedicated to ‘the few’. Erected in 1993 it is situated in ‘hell fire corner’ the place between Dover and Folkestone where a large amount of the battle of Britain was fought.

Rushing to get to Dover we passed an old “early warning acoustic mirror” from 1920s.  This was used for plotting aircraft movements, an early creation of radar used in WW2.

We entered Dover in time, but then had difficulty in finding the finish line as there were misleading signs pointing us in different directions, and the only reason found our way was by chance. English's father was the first person we saw and then as we walked around the corner we saw both of our families, with a sign and flags, standing at the line. There were also a few well-wishers who were passing by as we crossed the line.    

After many photos we went for a celebratory breakfast at a local café - we had not eaten before then, so that the much-anticipated breakfast would be more enjoyable. It was.

Crossing the line at Dover marked the end of our first expedition, the North Downs Way, and the start of many expeditions more to come.

The finish line

Mumford and English
with Dover Castle in the
background

English, before the cattle problem

Mumford after swimming

Folkestone on final day

Celebratory breakfast

Expedition North Downs Way - 'Men for all seasons' - Leg 3

Sat 23 - Sun 24 Jun 2012;

 Wrotham to Lenham

Distance - 34 miles;

 Weather on Day One - warm, Day 2 - damp and visibility poor.

Summary

Days One and 2 saw us journeying up on the ridge arcing to the North of Kent's county town of Maidstone to an apex at Rochester before turning South East, passing to the South of Chatham (Dickens country circa 1820), then on to the North of Leeds Castle until we reached Lenham.

Our start point was nearer to our homes for this Leg so we were able to leave from English's at 0630 hrs and start our walk just after 0700 hrs. We knew that the first day would be longer than any other so far. We thought it would be 17 miles but it ended up being 19 miles. By the end of Day One we had walked further than before, but had felt none of the initial strain of the earlier Legs. From our start at Wrotham we walked in the shadow of the North Downs all the way to East Boxley, North of Maidstone for our first night where once again we camped at a farm. Rather than being able to see into London as we had done on earlier legs, we had views of the Kent Weald and the River Medway coursing its way through Maidstone and on to Rochester.

We had started on Pilgrims Way at the top of Wrotham Hill. Throughout the first day we made slow progress due to numerous changes in elevation.  As a result, the distance that should have taken us 6 hours ended up taking us 12 hours. The lesson from this day was that as soon as you start climbing hills, the timeline doubles.

Day 2 was an easier day and we met our timeline finishing at Lenham contemplating the potential for completing our walk early on the next leg.
Day One in Detail

Begining of walk

We set off on Pilgrim's Way just to the North East of Wrotham village which is situated at the foot of the North Downs. Wrotham is noteworthy for its links with Roman wine growing, in particular Pinot Noir. As we headed North East towards Rochester on a steep climb we reached the top of the ridge in a mix of wooded and open areas. At no point could we see the Thames to our North. However, as we progressed along the ridge line we could see the Medway from time to time. The Medway divides Men of Kent/Maids of Kent who are born to the East of the Medway and Kentish Men/Kentish Maids who are born to the West of the river. You can remember this important fact - important to people of Kent by noting that Kentish Town is in London (now) and that is on the West side of the Medway.

The route went up and down the
ridge with tricky footing

As we approached Rochester we could see both the castle and the cathedral. Rochester is on a fascinating crossroads of travel by land and water - as a descriptor read this: 'Bear left up a slope to walk beside the A228 (Maidstone - Rochester road) across the HS1 Railway line and the M2 motorway which crosses the River Medway'; if nothing else this gives a sense of hubbub of human activity in this historically rich area.

The view of the ridge from over
the medway

Rochester takes its name from the Roman meaning of 'stronghold by the bridges' - this is the lowest bridging point on the River Medway. Rochester has been a town of historical military importance as it sits at the confluence of the Thames and the Medway rivers. Rings of castles and forts surround the area. Shorts Aircraft were made on the banks of the Medway and English's Grandfather (88) says he remembers seeing Short - Sunderland flying boats sitting in the river during the 1930s. Of note Charles Dickens who has his 200th anniversary of birth this year, 2012, thought of Rochester as his favourite town. In the second half of his life he lived at Gads Hill Place, Higham, nearby to Rochester. Great Expectations was written with Rochester and the river estuaries in mind. After Rochester we realised that we were fitter than earlier in the expedition but that we had lost time on the Downs and needed to press on to our pre-arranged night destination in the field of our third willing and supportive farmer, all of whom we continue to be extremely grateful.

Mumford map reading under Rochester
bridge.

We spent the night near Boxley which is by the County Showground at Detling. We  ate our rations cold, as rain was soon to come, after setting up our tent in a field. We had placed the tent at the bottom of the field in a small dip; this was due to the fact that it was sheltered and wind was getting up  Soon after we had erected the tent, the rain fell. Being unsure of the exact distance we had travelled over the day and the distance to come, Mumford measured the distance; it turned to be 19 miles

Day Two in Detail

We had arrived tired, but fit, at our night stop.  Now we needed to learn from Day One on the Downs and speed up. The weather was in our favour – damp, cool and with little to view due to mist. The ground was wet underfoot.  We found ourselves, at times, right on the edge of the ridge and after the mist cleared at about 0900 hrs we could see for miles to the South.  We stopped for lunch in a cattle field on top of a very windy hill and then we pushed on for the end point. Although we could not see Maidstone we knew it was to our South, another historic town. English's Great Great Grandfather and Great Grandfather had bought cattle at the livestock auctions at the turn of the 20th century - the site now has a cinema on it. The town has changed over the centuries, from the time of the Romans through to the modern day. In 1648 one of the great Civil War battles had been fought here with victory going to the Parliamentarians. Also in the mist lay Leeds Castle described on its website as 'The most lovely Castle in the World' which it probably is, but only if you can see it. It was built in 1119 by Robert de Crevecoeur as a Norman stronghold. Henry VIII developed the castle in 1519 for his wife Catherine of Aragon. The castle survived the Civil War because the owner signed with the Parliamentarians. Anyway, we couldn't see it but it didn't bother us, we had visited on numerous occasions and we wanted to arrive at the finish line on time.

As we approached Lenham we dropped down on to lower ground to one of two of Kent's thorough-fares; the M20/Euro Star; the other being to the North - the M2.

We were collected from the centre of lenham.

Leg 4 will take us even closer to Dover and we may even reach the End of our journey.

The early hours in the begining of day two

English with a wooden monk en route
to lenham

MEN FOR ALL SEASONS – LEG 2

REIGATE TO WROTHAM

21-22 APRIL 2012

Dear Readers, 

We are delighted to inform you that the second Leg of our 140 mile journey along the North Downs Way is complete.  Leg 2 took us from Reigate in Surrey to Wrotham Hill in Kent.

Astonishingly, we have had 690 people view our blog, ranging from as far afield as Indonesia, the United States, Russia, Serbia, Kuwait, Germany, France, Holland and the UK.  We have received warm messages of support from so many kind people, including a fellow walker and his wife travelling the South Downs at the same time, but in the opposite direction – ‘we wave to you and wish you well’. 

Determined to learn the lessons of our Winter trials and Spring first Leg (blog below, 24-25 March 2012, Farnham to Reigate), we acted on all our lessons identified, making it a much easier walk.  We made sure that we had the appropriate amount of snacks, cameras, and alarm clocks. 

You will recall that we finished our first Leg North West of Reigate, on Clifton’s Lane.   Having walked some of our route we noticed that we were also, for much of the journey, going to be following the Pilgrim’s Way, leading us to Canterbury and famous for the tales told by Chaucer to Pilgrims in the 14^th Century (Lesson 1 – Read one of Chaucer’s Tales en route).   

Kit was exchanged on Thursday after a rugby match at school in order that packing might be completed prior to Saturday’s early morning departure.  English then crossed the Kent/Sussex County line to join Mumford on Friday night.  

English at Mumfords house, on the friday,
doing some final kit adjustments

Mrs Mumford drove us to our start point arriving at 0715hrs.  The air was cold but we quickly warmed up after an early uphill climb to join our route East.  We were pleased to be starting our second Leg, we knew we were now credible to sponsors and importantly to ourselves – we knew that so long as we kept going we could achieve our goals; we wanted to get on.

With Reigate to our South East we made good ground at a comfortable pace of 4 miles an hour.  Our spirits were raised as we saw Box Hill receding to our West, our first indicator of how far and fast we could travel; a morale-boosting sight.  In our research we have we have uncovered a poem by Rhoda Cutbush, first Headmistress of our school Bennett Memorial; it’s called the North Downs:

 If you would know me, you must know the Downs,

The chalk hills of Kent, stretching across the county,

Shaking themselves free from roads and smoke and towns;

I am theirs, and they are mine, for here

From the Down dust there came,

Resting in the chalk once more now,

Generations of my name. 

So come with me tread the short grey grass,

And catch your breath to see the milkwort blue,

And marvel at the stunted hawthorn as we pass:

See Travellers’ Joy hand heavy on the hedge

Along the Pilgrims’ Way

Winding steadfastly to Canterbury

As in a long past day.

And rest on the curved hillside, where the rabbit holes

Show white in the dry soil, and bleached bones wake

No horror:

In highest heaven larks pour joy for thirsting souls,

In the low rock-rose the bee hums hungrily;

And in the distant south below

Stretches the blue gentleness

Of Kentish villages I know.

Here I belong: here I forget my fear,

With the short turf warm beneath my fingers,

And, crushed upon the chalk, some wild thyme near.

Dreaming, I pray that when the world shall end

I may watch the first dread sign

Lying on the Downs in August,

With your hand in mine.

We had calculated that on the first day of Leg 2 we would need to travel 17 miles to our pre-arranged farmer field North West of Sevenoaks, Kent.  Having learned to have regular stops and to take ‘Second Breakfast’ we walked for our first 4 miles trekking just 250 metres North of Reigate’s Northern suburbs.  First, over the M25 motorway, then under the M23, a dark and miserable place, with little to commend it, but worse a discarded roll mat and the remnants of a packet of Impiral nuts - the same as ours in our ration packs; we hurried on, faintly unnerved.  

The route under the M23

We had a breakfast, of a nice muesli from our ration packs, North of South Mersham in a field, then climbed a muddy hill and came into view of London.   We pressed on a kilometre to the south of Caterham crossing a path of slippery mud with vast puddles.  Caterham, famous for it kit cars and Guards Depot Barracks; David Stirling, founder of the Special Air Service, trained here in the 1930s.  Just a mile North of Caterham but unseen to ourselves was Kenley airfield one of the 3 main famous WWII fighter stations; Biggin Hill, Kenley and Croydon.  Douglas Bader the WWII fighter ace, had been posted to Kenley in 1930 before his crash where he lost his legs.  Hermann Goering had authorized safe passage for a replacement limb after Bader was shot down on enemy territory, landing without one of his prosthetic limbs!   

The muddy hill that we had just climbed
after breakfast, the mud was thick and stuck
to our boots

The slippery path that came after the hill
on the left. The ground was very different

Mumford at our snack and blister
stop.

Our route around London found us on the South side of the Downs preventing London from being permanently in view.  The last time we were to see London on this Leg was at Knockholt, 3 miles North West of Westerham, on Day 2 close to Darwin’s home, Down House.  Mid morning we felt the beginnings of blisters coming.  Unlike last time when we let them go and become sour, this time we attended to them early; Compeed saved us from further trouble. 

North of Godstone, a name that is derived from the word ‘Goda’, meaning farm village in old English; as does the word ‘Tun’ – hence, Tunbridge Wells, and once inhabited by the Norman Count of Boulogne.  We passed another vineyard but much smaller than the one under Box Hill. 

English's vegetable soup lunch.

By midday we were taking a route to the North of Oxted 11 miles from our start point with London off to our North West.  Oxted sits on the Pilgrim’s Ways, the Vanguard Way and Green Sands Way giving rise to knowing what was beneath our feet.  The Vanguard Way is a 66 mile route from the City of London to the Southern Coast.  With 3 routes (Ways) through Oxted we were left sensible of what a major travel route crossroads this town occupied.  Interestingly, Oxted also sits on the Greenwich Meridian Line. 

Mumford at lunch stop

Having crossed the Meridian Line, we sat for lunch, only to be confronted by a lady in a cycling group who clean went over her handle bars – we gave her some of our medical kit, surgical wipes and offered her ibuprofen; with thanks we parted going in opposite directions.  Having walked in woodland North of Oxted, we set a new course East taking us a mile South of Biggin Hill with spectacular views reaching out South into Kent, the Garden of England. 

English after we passed the plaque
on the right

Proceeding along Chestnut Avenue and Betsom’s Hill North of Westerham.  With the hill running to our North covered with trees and magnificent views to our South we attempted to climb the hill to once more see the great capital – alas we could see nothing of the city.  As we walked we found ourselves amongst stylized houses.  Suddenly, rain clouds came in from the North West, we ran for the woods bordering a field and made it just in time to take cover against the ensuing down pour.  The trees gave little protection and we quickly became wet as we struggled for our kit. 

The rain that was catching up with us

Rain-soaked, we made the last mile to the farm across fields, where we met the kind farmer and his wife, presented gifts and in return were given loan of a field for the night.  We had crossed into Kent.  This time we cooked our rations and slept soundly, waking at 0500 hrs to the sound of ‘On the Road Again’ – our alarm call for the day. 

We quietly put our kit away.  We had damp ground with a clear sky that morning.  Hopefully without waking the farmhouse, we slipped away back on our route. With Sevenoaks to the South East, we were away by 0630 hrs with 13 miles to make to our finish point where we were to meet Mrs English at Wrotham Hill at 1430 hrs. 

The view of Chevening House from where
Mumford had breakfast.

On this early Sunday morning the wildlife was out, a roe deer came briefly into view.  Running on the South side of the North Downs we passed below Knockholt where Mumford took breakfast in view of Chevening House.   With more spectacular views to the South East and all the while on the inside of the M25 London Orbital motorway, it is one of the curious things that there is such good country still to be found on the inside of the M25.  We crossed the motorway on the A224 taking us to Otford. 

Otford sits within the Western Kentish borders.  Famous for what it claims to be the world’s largest-scale model of the solar system.  Otford lies on the River Darent with its Roman Villa downstream near Lullingstone.  The King of Mercia is reported as fighting the Kentish Saxons in 776 at Otford.  A notable landmark is the Archbishop’s Palace, logically placed by Pilgrim’s Way. 

The last section of our journey was the 5 miles to Wrotham Hill passing North of Kemsing where English’s Great Grandparents were married in 1922.  We arrived at Wrotham for 1400 hrs, 30 minutes before our agreed end time.    We both felt good, fitter and with tougher feet than in Leg One.

Our next Leg will take us deep into Kent, the Garden of England.

Mumford with rain gear on. The
rain stopped as soon as we had coats on

The North Downs Way path continued half way
up the ridge shown

English map reading at the begining of day one

 

English coming down the hill from
where he did some reconnaissance to see if
 london was visible. It was not.

Much of the path near the end of day
one was like the above. It was very difficult
to cross as most of it was only the width of a foot wide,
we nearly fell many times

Mumford in tent whilst packing up.

Engish and Mumford at a North Downs Way sign.
There are many of these all along the route